• Santoku 180mm Damascus 'Fire & Sonic Waves'
  • Santoku 180mm Damascus 'Fire & Sonic Waves' – detail view
  • Santoku 180mm Damascus 'Fire & Sonic Waves' – side profile
  • Santoku 180mm Damascus 'Fire & Sonic Waves' – handle detail
  • Santoku 180mm Damascus 'Fire & Sonic Waves' – blade close-up
  • Santoku 180mm Damascus 'Fire & Sonic Waves' – view 6
  • Santoku 180mm Damascus 'Fire & Sonic Waves' – view 7
  • Santoku 180mm Damascus 'Fire & Sonic Waves' – view 8
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Santoku 180mm Damaskus "Feuer & Schallwellen"

Santoku 180mm Damaskus "Feuer & Schallwellen"

By Martin Huber

No longer available

Martin Huber

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Hier haben wir ein Martin Huber Santoku 180mm. Die Klinge ist aus hauseigenem Damast 1.2842, 75Ni8, C100 geschmiedet. Wie Schallwellen in Schwarz-, Grau- und Silbertönen erstrecken sich die Schichten über die Klinge.

Die Kante beginnt mit einer Abflachung, die sich über etwa 30 mm erstreckt, gefolgt von einer subtilen Kurve, die allmählich ansteigt, um auf die nadelartige Spitze zu treffen. Ein steifer und stabiler Rücken mit sehr geringer Verjüngung rundet das Profil ab. Die Klinge hat ein sicheres Gefühl auf dem Brett mit einem zufriedenstellenden Gewicht und einer schön scharfen Kante.

Martin Huber verwendet immer die hochwertigsten Materialien für seine Messer, von seinen selbstgefertigten Stählen bis zu den schönen, stabilisierten Hölzern, die er für seine Griffe verwendet. Diese Klinge verfügt über einen Griff aus stabilisierter Pappel und Mooreiche mit einem G10-Abstandshalter. Eine schwarz-goldene feurige Schönheit!

Martin stellt eine Reihe von Griffprofilen her, aber wir neigen dazu, sein konisches Rokkaku-Hanmaru anzufordern. Es ist ein wunderschöner, facettierter Griff mit fantastischer Ergonomie.

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 180mm
  • Spine Heel: 3.8mm
  • Spine Mid: 3.25mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 1.9mm
  • Blade Height: 55mm
  • Weight: 214g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 64+
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Mattpolitur
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Stabilised Poplar Burl, G10, Bog Oak
  • Handedness: Beidhändig

Blade type

Santoku

三徳

A shorter, lighter all-purpose knife — usually 165 to 180 mm — built around the same "three virtues" the name describes: meat, fish, and vegetables. The edge is flatter than a gyuto's, with a rounded, sheepsfoot-style tip, favouring a straight up-and-down push cut over a rocking motion. Its compact length and modest height make it easy to control, which has made it the default home-kitchen knife across much of the world.

The santoku trades reach and tip precision for manageability. The flatter profile and shorter blade suit smaller hands, smaller boards, and cooks who chop rather than rock, but those same dimensions limit it on large proteins and tall vegetables where a longer, taller blade does the work more easily. Think of it as a gyuto's more approachable counterpart rather than a replacement.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

Damascus

Pattern-welded composite construction (term, not an alloy)

Typical HRC
Determined by core / outer steel
Corrosion class
Varies
Production
Pattern-welded
Origin
Global

"Damascus" is a construction technique, not a steel. Modern damascus billets are made by forge-welding alternating layers of two or more steels — typically a higher- and a lower-carbon partner, or a contrasting-nickel pair — and then folding, twisting, ladder-cutting, or otherwise manipulating the billet to expose the layer interfaces in a pattern. The visual interest comes from the etch, which preferentially attacks one of the two steels.

For a kitchen knife the relevant question is always: what is the cutting steel? Many premium Japanese damascus knives are *clad* damascus — a VG-10, SG2 or carbon core inside a multi-layer damascus jacket — in which case the patterning is decorative and the cutting metallurgy is the core. In *full* damascus knives (more common in custom Western work) the entire blade is pattern-welded, and the cutting steel is the harder of the two laminate components.

This is one of the points where a customer-facing entry needs to be honest: a beautiful damascus pattern is a craft achievement, but it does not on its own tell the buyer how the knife will cut. The core steel does that, and a good maker will list both.

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Mosaic Damascus

A sub-discipline of damascus in which the maker arranges the contrasting steels into deliberate pictorial or repeating patterns — stars, knots, signatures, complete images — rather than the flowing, fold-driven patterns of conventional damascus.

The technique is associated with the modern American school and with a small number of European specialists. As with conventional damascus, the cutting performance comes from whichever steel forms the cutting edge; the mosaic pattern is, almost by definition, a display feature.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Convex

A grind whose bevel bulges outward in a gentle curve from spine to edge, rather than running flat. That extra steel directly behind the edge makes a convex grind notably strong and resistant to chipping, while the curved geometry helps food release and lets the blade glide through dense ingredients with less wedging than a flat grind.

The strength comes at the cost of ultimate thinness and ease of maintenance. A convex edge has more metal behind it, so it is not quite as effortlessly keen as a thinly flat-ground edge, and it is harder to sharpen freehand — holding the curve takes a stropping technique or a deliberate hand rather than a single fixed angle. The reward is an exceptionally tough, smooth-cutting edge.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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