• Adonis Forged Arts Hephaestus series Gyuto 230mm "Western Gyuto" O1 - Blade
  • Adonis Forged Arts Hephaestus series Gyuto 230mm "Western Gyuto" O1 - Handle
  • Adonis Forged Arts Hephaestus series Gyuto 230mm "Western Gyuto" O1 - Profile
  • Adonis Forged Arts Hephaestus series Gyuto 230mm "Western Gyuto" O1 - Profile
  • Adonis Forged Arts Hephaestus series Gyuto 230mm "Western Gyuto" O1 - Choil
  • Adonis Forged Arts Hephaestus series Gyuto 230mm "Western Gyuto" O1 - With some light
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Hephaestus-Serie Gyuto 230 mm "Western Gyuto" O1

Hephaestus-Serie Gyuto 230 mm "Western Gyuto" O1

By Adonis Forged Arts

No longer available

Antoine Kniamen

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Ein "Western Gyuto" 230 mm mit geschmiedetem Integralbolster aus der "Hephaestus-Serie" des französischen Klingenschmieds Antoine Kniamen alias Adonis Forged Arts . Das Profil soll die besten Eigenschaften des japanischen Gyuto und des europäischen Kochmessers verkörpern, daher der Name „Western Gyuto“. Der flache Abschnitt ist also etwas weniger, aber immer noch groß, als bei einem traditionellen Gyuto, und die Krümmung der Klinge ist auch subtiler und fließender. Es ist ein einzigartiges und schönes Profil, das in einer Vielzahl von Situationen fantastisch sein wird.

Mit etwa 260 g ist es ziemlich schwer für eine Klinge dieser Größe, aber wenn es in der Klemme gehalten wird, fühlt es sich wunderbar ausbalanciert, wendig und viel leichter an, als es tatsächlich ist. Die integrierte Polsterung fühlt sich sehr angenehm an und der kräftige 4,6-mm-Rücken lässt sich sehr gut zwischen den Fingern halten.

Ich habe das Gewicht und den kräftigen Rücken erwähnt, aber lassen Sie mich Ihnen versichern, dass diese Klinge Kurven an den richtigen Stellen hat. Die Geometrie ist rundum hochleistungsfähig. Das Messer verjüngt sich entlang beider Achsen am Rücken und durch den Klingenkörper. Das Ergebnis ist eine laserähnliche Spitze und Klingenkante, die sich super scharf anfühlt und wie ein Traum schneidet.

Antoines Klingen haben immer einen sehr einzigartigen und edlen, aber modernen Stil und dieses Messer ist keine Ausnahme. Die Klinge verfügt über einen atemberaubenden "Lightning Bolt" aus Nickelfolie, der durch das polierte, kaffeeschwarze Finish schlägt. Wie bereits erwähnt, verfügt die Klinge über einen geschmiedeten integrierten Kropf, der sich bis zu einem achteckigen Griff aus Rosskastanienholz erstreckt. Ein individuelles Adonis-Namensschild rundet das Paket in atemberaubender Form ab. Ein wirklich schönes Stück von einem unserer beliebtesten Schmiedehandwerker.

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 230mm
  • Spine Heel: 4.65mm
  • Spine Mid: 2.9mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 0.35mm
  • Blade Height: 57.5mm
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 62
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: SchmiedeeisenSäuregeätzt (erzwungene Patina)
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Buckeye Burl
  • Handedness: Beidhändig

Blade type

Gyuto

牛刀

The Japanese take on the Western chef's knife, and the most versatile blade in a modern kitchen. A gyuto carries a long, gently curved edge — most often 210 to 270 mm — that allows both push cuts and a rocking motion, with a pointed tip for fine work and enough height at the heel to keep knuckles clear of the board. It handles proteins, vegetables, and herbs without complaint, which is why most cooks reach for it first.

Compared with a European chef's knife, the gyuto is usually thinner, harder, and lighter, ground to a finer edge that rewards good board technique and regular honing. That same thinness is the trade-off: the edge is less forgiving of bone, frozen food, and twisting cuts, and it asks for a little more care in maintenance in exchange for its keenness.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

O1

Low-alloy oil-hardening tool steel

Typical HRC
60–63
Corrosion class
Carbon
Production
Conventional
Origin
United States (AISI); approximately equivalent to DIN 1.2510

O1 is one of the original Western "oil-hardening" tool steels, with about 0.95 percent carbon, half a percent of chromium, half a percent of tungsten, and roughly 1.2 percent manganese. The manganese makes the steel deep-hardening in oil, which is part of why O1 became an early staple for knifemakers without industrial heat-treatment equipment: it is forgiving of a less-than-perfect quench.

In a kitchen knife O1 runs in the low sixties HRC, sharpens easily, and produces a clean carbon-steel edge with moderate edge retention — better than 1084, shy of 52100. Toughness is good but not exceptional; the larger inclusions inherent to the manganese-heavy chemistry make the steel less refined at the apex than some of the cleaner carbons. Patina behaviour is conventional.

It is most commonly seen in older Sheffield and American production knives and in the work of bladesmiths who have been at it for a few decades and stuck with what they trust. As a contemporary choice it is overshadowed somewhat by 26C3 and 80CrV2, but it remains a perfectly sensible carbon steel and a useful reference point for anyone reading older knife literature. Among the makers Modern Cooking carries, Brook Turner and Robert Kaufmann work in O1.

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Laminated Steel

A category covering knives built from multiple layers of different steels forge-welded together. The hard cutting steel is sandwiched between softer outer layers (cladding) that protect the core, add toughness, and often contribute visual contrast.

The most common laminated constructions in the Modern Cooking catalogue are:

SanMai (三枚) — three layers: hard cutting steel in the centre, softer cladding on both sides. The traditional and most common form.

GoMai (五枚) — five layers: a hard core, two intermediate layers, and two outer layers. Adds visual depth and structural complexity.

KuMai (九枚) — nine layers: similar logic, with more cladding layers for additional pattern and structural variation.

GoMai and KuMai are often chosen not only for the additional layers and visual depth, but also because the intermediate layers can act as a nickel diffusion barrier — limiting carbon migration out of the core into the cladding during forge welding, and protecting the core's intended carbon content through the heat of the forging process.

In all cases the cutting performance is determined by the core steel; the outer layers are cosmetic and structural. The lamination contributes corrosion protection (when a stainless jacket clads a carbon core), reduced reactivity, and the visible boundary between core and cladding that gives the knife its character.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Flat

A grind in which the blade tapers in a straight line from the spine down toward the edge, with no curve or hollow in the bevel. The flat grind is the most common geometry on modern double-bevel kitchen knives because it balances cutting performance and durability: thin enough behind the edge to slice well, with enough steel behind it to stay strong.

A true full flat grind, running from spine to edge, is keen but can wedge in dense produce as the food meets the widening blade; many kitchen knives use a partial flat grind that begins lower on the blade to manage that. The flat grind's appeal is its predictability — it sharpens straightforwardly, behaves consistently, and asks nothing unusual of the user.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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