• Gyuto 225mm Lazy Twist
  • Gyuto 225mm Lazy Twist – detail view
  • Gyuto 225mm Lazy Twist – side profile
  • Gyuto 225mm Lazy Twist – handle detail
  • Gyuto 225mm Lazy Twist – blade close-up
  • Gyuto 225mm Lazy Twist – view 6
  • Gyuto 225mm Lazy Twist – view 7
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Gyuto 225mm Lazy Twist

Gyuto 225mm Lazy Twist

By Martin Huber

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Martin Huber

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A classic piece from Martin Huber. House made Damascus 1.2842, 75Ni8, C100 forged in a lazy twist pattern. A unique combination of symmetrical and asymmetrical linear and circular patterns. Finished with a touch of brute de forge around the spine. A very cool looking piece of steel.

The profile is a classic Martin Huber Santoku tipped Euro style Gyuto profile. Relatively tall compared to a Japanese Gyuto and ground workhorse for a stable cutting experience and a durable edge.

Martin’s tapered Rokkaku Hanmaru handle is a very comfortable in the handle. Always produced in premium stabilized woods, or other robust and durable materials and screw fastened.

Generally speaking, Martin produces incredibly well made knives and this Gyuto is no exception. If you are in the market for a beautiful Gyuto with a durable edge geometry perfect for working through hardy produce look no further.

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 225mm
  • Spine Heel: 2.65mm
  • Spine Mid: 2.6mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 2.75mm
  • Blade Height: 57.3mm
  • Weight: 227g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 62
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Acid Etched (Forced Patina)Brute de Forge
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Stabilised Spalted Beech, Carbon, G10
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous

Blade type

Gyuto

牛刀

The Japanese take on the Western chef's knife, and the most versatile blade in a modern kitchen. A gyuto carries a long, gently curved edge — most often 210 to 270 mm — that allows both push cuts and a rocking motion, with a pointed tip for fine work and enough height at the heel to keep knuckles clear of the board. It handles proteins, vegetables, and herbs without complaint, which is why most cooks reach for it first.

Compared with a European chef's knife, the gyuto is usually thinner, harder, and lighter, ground to a finer edge that rewards good board technique and regular honing. That same thinness is the trade-off: the edge is less forgiving of bone, frozen food, and twisting cuts, and it asks for a little more care in maintenance in exchange for its keenness.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

Damascus

Pattern-welded composite construction (term, not an alloy)

Typical HRC
Determined by core / outer steel
Corrosion class
Varies
Production
Pattern-welded
Origin
Global

"Damascus" is a construction technique, not a steel. Modern damascus billets are made by forge-welding alternating layers of two or more steels — typically a higher- and a lower-carbon partner, or a contrasting-nickel pair — and then folding, twisting, ladder-cutting, or otherwise manipulating the billet to expose the layer interfaces in a pattern. The visual interest comes from the etch, which preferentially attacks one of the two steels.

For a kitchen knife the relevant question is always: what is the cutting steel? Many premium Japanese damascus knives are *clad* damascus — a VG-10, SG2 or carbon core inside a multi-layer damascus jacket — in which case the patterning is decorative and the cutting metallurgy is the core. In *full* damascus knives (more common in custom Western work) the entire blade is pattern-welded, and the cutting steel is the harder of the two laminate components.

This is one of the points where a customer-facing entry needs to be honest: a beautiful damascus pattern is a craft achievement, but it does not on its own tell the buyer how the knife will cut. The core steel does that, and a good maker will list both.

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Damascus

Pattern-welded steel — multiple layers of different alloys forge-welded, then folded, twisted, ladder-cut, or otherwise manipulated to expose the layer interfaces in a visible pattern. The pattern is revealed by acid etching, which preferentially attacks one of the two steels in the laminate.

Damascus is a construction technique rather than a single steel. The cutting performance is determined by which steel forms the cutting edge — often a clad core in Japanese damascus knives, occasionally the harder of the two laminate steels in full-damascus Western work. A beautiful damascus pattern is a craft achievement; it does not on its own tell the buyer how the knife will cut. A good maker lists both the pattern and the core steel.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Convex

A grind whose bevel bulges outward in a gentle curve from spine to edge, rather than running flat. That extra steel directly behind the edge makes a convex grind notably strong and resistant to chipping, while the curved geometry helps food release and lets the blade glide through dense ingredients with less wedging than a flat grind.

The strength comes at the cost of ultimate thinness and ease of maintenance. A convex edge has more metal behind it, so it is not quite as effortlessly keen as a thinly flat-ground edge, and it is harder to sharpen freehand — holding the curve takes a stropping technique or a deliberate hand rather than a single fixed angle. The reward is an exceptionally tough, smooth-cutting edge.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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