• Kiritsuke 245mm SanMai
  • Kiritsuke 245mm SanMai – detail view
  • Kiritsuke 245mm SanMai – side profile
  • Kiritsuke 245mm SanMai – handle detail
  • Kiritsuke 245mm SanMai – blade close-up
  • Kiritsuke 245mm SanMai – view 6
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Kiritsuke 245mm SanMai

Kiritsuke 245mm SanMai

By Dominik Filip

No longer available

Dominik Filip

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Rarely do you see authentic Kiritsuke blades forged by western makers. The very low radius of the edge profile of this traditional Japanese profile is designed for the most senior of chefs in the kitchen, perfect for the tasks that are performed by this senior position.

This beautiful piece of work by Dominik Filip of Merion Forge features a 1.2008 core and is clad in mild steel. A stone finished bevel mottled and hazy, that meets the edge in an almost mirror polish. Incredibly sharp!

The stabilised maple and black buffalo horn handle with exposed dowel is a contemporary take on the traditional Japanese octagonal handle. Another exceptional piece of work from Dominik.

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 245mm
  • Spine Heel: 3.64mm
  • Spine Mid: 1.84mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 1.54mm
  • Blade Height: 63mm
  • Weight: 252g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 62
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Kasumi, Brute de Forge
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Stabilised Maple, Black Buffalo
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous

Blade type

Kiritsuke

切付

Traditionally a master's knife — a long, straight-profiled blade with a distinctive angled, reverse-tanto tip, historically a single-bevel knife reserved for senior chefs. In its modern double-bevel form (sometimes called a kiritsuke-gyuto or kiritsuke-santoku) it functions as a flat-profiled all-rounder: the long straight edge favours push cutting and the dramatic angled tip handles fine point work.

The kiritsuke asks more of its user than most blades. The flat profile rewards precise, controlled technique and resists rocking, and the true single-bevel version demands specific sharpening skill and a committed hand. Much of the knife's reputation is cultural as well as functional, and the double-bevel versions are far more forgiving for everyday use.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

1.2008

Plain high-carbon tool steel

Typical HRC
62–65
Corrosion class
Carbon
Production
Conventional
Origin
Germany (DIN; closely overlapping 135Cr3)

1.2008 is one of the European working-cook carbons, with about 1.35 to 1.40 percent carbon, half a percent of chromium, and very little else. It is sometimes sold interchangeably with 135Cr3, and for kitchen knife purposes the two should be treated as essentially the same steel.

In a finished knife 1.2008 lands at 63–64 HRC, sharpens cleanly, and behaves at the apex like a slightly more wear-resistant W2. Edge retention is moderate, toughness is good for the hardness, and patina behaviour is conventional. It is a familiar steel to the European bladesmith community and a sensible choice in the workshop.

It does not have the cachet of 26C3 or Apex Ultra, but as a solid, traditional, easily worked European carbon it is a thoroughly honest material. Among the makers Modern Cooking carries, Dominik Filip works in 1.2008.

Also known as:135Cr3

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Laminated Steel

A category covering knives built from multiple layers of different steels forge-welded together. The hard cutting steel is sandwiched between softer outer layers (cladding) that protect the core, add toughness, and often contribute visual contrast.

The most common laminated constructions in the Modern Cooking catalogue are:

SanMai (三枚) — three layers: hard cutting steel in the centre, softer cladding on both sides. The traditional and most common form.

GoMai (五枚) — five layers: a hard core, two intermediate layers, and two outer layers. Adds visual depth and structural complexity.

KuMai (九枚) — nine layers: similar logic, with more cladding layers for additional pattern and structural variation.

GoMai and KuMai are often chosen not only for the additional layers and visual depth, but also because the intermediate layers can act as a nickel diffusion barrier — limiting carbon migration out of the core into the cladding during forge welding, and protecting the core's intended carbon content through the heat of the forging process.

In all cases the cutting performance is determined by the core steel; the outer layers are cosmetic and structural. The lamination contributes corrosion protection (when a stainless jacket clads a carbon core), reduced reactivity, and the visible boundary between core and cladding that gives the knife its character.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Convex

A grind whose bevel bulges outward in a gentle curve from spine to edge, rather than running flat. That extra steel directly behind the edge makes a convex grind notably strong and resistant to chipping, while the curved geometry helps food release and lets the blade glide through dense ingredients with less wedging than a flat grind.

The strength comes at the cost of ultimate thinness and ease of maintenance. A convex edge has more metal behind it, so it is not quite as effortlessly keen as a thinly flat-ground edge, and it is harder to sharpen freehand — holding the curve takes a stropping technique or a deliberate hand rather than a single fixed angle. The reward is an exceptionally tough, smooth-cutting edge.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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