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Gyuto 220mm Full Carbon Suminagashi Damascus

Gyuto 220mm Full Carbon Suminagashi Damascus

By ScheepersBuilt


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Luke Scheepers

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A stunning one of a kind piece from Australian knife making duo Luke and Danae Scheepers. This is a Gyuto 220mm with a full carbon suminagashi construction. The core is forged in Vtoku2, hardened to approximately 62+ HRC, and clad in a beautiful full carbon Damascus. This bad boy is going to transform with age into something very special, an absolute patina magnet!

When it come to the handle its a tasteful dyed and stabilised maple octagonal handle in blue and red hues. The colours pair beautifully with the dark Damascus and as the blade begins to patina this pairing will only become more beautiful. Typically, thoughtful designers, but the Scheepers have really nailed it on this one.

Luke Scheepers has a solid understanding when it comes to blade performance, often giving the blades technical grinds, like the "S" grind that is often found on his bunka's. On this blade it’s a symmetrical convex and it is beautifully thin behind the edge. This will be a lovely knife to work with and something special to behold especially as it ages.

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 220mm
  • Spine Heel: 2.6mm
  • Spine Mid: 2.6mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 1.8mm
  • Blade Height: 50mm
  • Weight: 185g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 62+
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Acid Etched (Forced Patina)
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Dyed and Stabilised Maple
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous

Blade type

Gyuto

牛刀

The Japanese take on the Western chef's knife, and the most versatile blade in a modern kitchen. A gyuto carries a long, gently curved edge — most often 210 to 270 mm — that allows both push cuts and a rocking motion, with a pointed tip for fine work and enough height at the heel to keep knuckles clear of the board. It handles proteins, vegetables, and herbs without complaint, which is why most cooks reach for it first.

Compared with a European chef's knife, the gyuto is usually thinner, harder, and lighter, ground to a finer edge that rewards good board technique and regular honing. That same thinness is the trade-off: the edge is less forgiving of bone, frozen food, and twisting cuts, and it asks for a little more care in maintenance in exchange for its keenness.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

V-Toku2

Low-alloy high-carbon tungsten-chromium tool steel

Typical HRC
63–66
Corrosion class
Carbon
Production
Conventional
Origin
Japan (Takefu Special Steel)

Editorial note: V-Toku2 is sometimes described in online write-ups as "semi-stainless." The steel's chromium content (around 0.25 percent) is too low to support that claim — V-Toku2 is unambiguously a clean, reactive carbon steel. It will patina and rust if neglected, and should be cared for accordingly.

The composition is approximately 1.05 percent carbon, 0.25 percent chromium, 1.25 percent tungsten, and a small vanadium addition. Conceptually it is Takefu's answer to Aogami #2: similar W-Cr-C balance, similar feel at the stone, similar performance at the apex. In a finished knife it runs at 62–65 HRC, sharpens cleanly, and produces a refined edge with good wear resistance from the tungsten carbides.

V-Toku2 is increasingly seen in mid-tier Japanese clad knives where the maker wants an Aogami-feel carbon without committing to Hitachi stock. Among the makers Modern Cooking carries, Adonis Forged Arts and Oatley Knives work in V-Toku2. It is a quietly capable steel and a good answer for a cook who wants the "blue paper" experience from a non-Hitachi maker.

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Mono Steel

A knife forged from a single piece of steel — no laminations, no clad layers. The simplest and most direct construction. The entire blade is the cutting steel, with no softer outer jacket to protect or contrast it. Most contemporary Western kitchen knives in carbon and stainless steel are mono-steel constructions, as are honyaki and most European bladesmith work.

The trade-off is straightforward: mono-steel knives are easier to forge, sharpen, and reason about, but the entire blade carries the cutting steel's properties — including its reactivity if it's a clean carbon. There is no soft jacket to protect a more brittle core from impact, so the heat treatment and geometry have to do all the work.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Convex

A grind whose bevel bulges outward in a gentle curve from spine to edge, rather than running flat. That extra steel directly behind the edge makes a convex grind notably strong and resistant to chipping, while the curved geometry helps food release and lets the blade glide through dense ingredients with less wedging than a flat grind.

The strength comes at the cost of ultimate thinness and ease of maintenance. A convex edge has more metal behind it, so it is not quite as effortlessly keen as a thinly flat-ground edge, and it is harder to sharpen freehand — holding the curve takes a stropping technique or a deliberate hand rather than a single fixed angle. The reward is an exceptionally tough, smooth-cutting edge.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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