• Gyuto 216mm Wrought Iron Clad 135Cr3 Full Kasumi 'Phénix' Mali Irie-Cros
  • Gyuto 216mm Wrought Iron Clad 135Cr3 Full Kasumi 'Phénix' Mali Irie-Cros – detail view
  • Gyuto 216mm Wrought Iron Clad 135Cr3 Full Kasumi 'Phénix' Mali Irie-Cros – side profile
  • Gyuto 216mm Wrought Iron Clad 135Cr3 Full Kasumi 'Phénix' Mali Irie-Cros – handle detail
  • Gyuto 216mm Wrought Iron Clad 135Cr3 Full Kasumi 'Phénix' Mali Irie-Cros – blade close-up
  • Gyuto 216mm Wrought Iron Clad 135Cr3 Full Kasumi 'Phénix' Mali Irie-Cros – view 6
  • Gyuto 216mm Wrought Iron Clad 135Cr3 Full Kasumi 'Phénix' Mali Irie-Cros – view 7
  • Gyuto 216mm Wrought Iron Clad 135Cr3 Full Kasumi 'Phénix' Mali Irie-Cros – view 8
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Gyuto 216mm Wrought Iron Clad 135Cr3 Full Kasumi "Phénix" Mali Irie-Cros

Gyuto 216mm Wrought Iron Clad 135Cr3 Full Kasumi "Phénix" Mali Irie-Cros

By Milan Gravier

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Milan Gravier

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This is truly something special and such a representative piece, both in terms of Milan’s perspective on knife making, but also in terms of the very art of cooking itself. For this piece Milan forged the blade from a San Mai billet he constructed out of 135Cr3 clad in wrought iron. The wrought iron was up-cycled from a unused wagon wheel from his property in rural France. The handle is also up-cycled oak originally harvested and used to produce wine barrels. This concept of producing some beautiful from something unwanted or unused is fitting as in cooking it is often the same. Think of a rough cut of meat that is slow cooked until it is tender and flavorful or a vegetable that is bitter and tough until pickled or braised.

Milan partnered with world renowned hand engraving Mali Irie-Cros to have the blade engraved with the Phénix, a symbol that represents rebirth, a fitting icon for such a beautiful piece of work. Mali Irie-Cros has an intimate relationship with knife making or more accurately the art of sword making. She is a multi-award winner at the Nihon Bijutsu Token Hozon Kai (NBTHK) sword making completion in Tokyo, where in 2018 and 2019 she was awarded first place for her engraving work on Japanese Katana.

The knife itself has a simple, yet elegant design, but Milan’s artistry is much more than skin deep. A water quenched HRC 64 San Mai blade that has been ground by hand on water cooled stone wheel and finished on natural Japanese whetstones. The result is a beautifully consistent convex grind with a stunning Kasumi polish, hazy and clean with lovely alloy banding elements that peak through highlighting the natural structure of the wrought iron cladding.

The realization of such a beautiful piece is the completion of many hours work using artisan techniques to produce a what is an undeniably beautiful culinary kitchen knife, but also a high-performance cutting tools with a very precise geometry. Just amazing!

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 216mm
  • Spine Heel: 4mm
  • Spine Mid: 3mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 1mm
  • Blade Height: 50mm
  • Weight: 205g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 64+
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Kasumi, Matte Polish
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Old Oak, Brass
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous
  • Saya / Storage Included: Yes

Blade type

Gyuto

牛刀

The Japanese take on the Western chef's knife, and the most versatile blade in a modern kitchen. A gyuto carries a long, gently curved edge — most often 210 to 270 mm — that allows both push cuts and a rocking motion, with a pointed tip for fine work and enough height at the heel to keep knuckles clear of the board. It handles proteins, vegetables, and herbs without complaint, which is why most cooks reach for it first.

Compared with a European chef's knife, the gyuto is usually thinner, harder, and lighter, ground to a finer edge that rewards good board technique and regular honing. That same thinness is the trade-off: the edge is less forgiving of bone, frozen food, and twisting cuts, and it asks for a little more care in maintenance in exchange for its keenness.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

135Cr3

Plain high-carbon tool steel

Typical HRC
62–65
Corrosion class
Carbon
Production
Conventional
Origin
AFNOR / DIN; closely overlaps 1.2008

Editorial note: despite the "Cr3" suffix, which superficially suggests a low-carbon case-hardening grade, 135Cr3 is in fact a through-hardening high-carbon tool steel. The name is occasionally a source of confusion when buyers see the steel listed in older catalogues alongside true case-hardening grades like 16MnCr5; in practice 135Cr3 is interchangeable with 1.2008 for kitchen knife purposes.

The editorial profile follows 1.2008: a respectable, traditional European high-carbon at 62–65 HRC, with moderate edge retention, good toughness for the hardness, and conventional patina behaviour. It is most often seen in French and German workshop production where the carbon-steel idiom is part of the maker's identity. Among the makers Modern Cooking carries, Yanick Puig, Milan Gravier, Guirec Péron, and Jonas Johnsson work in 135Cr3.

Also known as:1.2008

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Laminated Steel

A category covering knives built from multiple layers of different steels forge-welded together. The hard cutting steel is sandwiched between softer outer layers (cladding) that protect the core, add toughness, and often contribute visual contrast.

The most common laminated constructions in the Modern Cooking catalogue are:

SanMai (三枚) — three layers: hard cutting steel in the centre, softer cladding on both sides. The traditional and most common form.

GoMai (五枚) — five layers: a hard core, two intermediate layers, and two outer layers. Adds visual depth and structural complexity.

KuMai (九枚) — nine layers: similar logic, with more cladding layers for additional pattern and structural variation.

GoMai and KuMai are often chosen not only for the additional layers and visual depth, but also because the intermediate layers can act as a nickel diffusion barrier — limiting carbon migration out of the core into the cladding during forge welding, and protecting the core's intended carbon content through the heat of the forging process.

In all cases the cutting performance is determined by the core steel; the outer layers are cosmetic and structural. The lamination contributes corrosion protection (when a stainless jacket clads a carbon core), reduced reactivity, and the visible boundary between core and cladding that gives the knife its character.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Convex

A grind whose bevel bulges outward in a gentle curve from spine to edge, rather than running flat. That extra steel directly behind the edge makes a convex grind notably strong and resistant to chipping, while the curved geometry helps food release and lets the blade glide through dense ingredients with less wedging than a flat grind.

The strength comes at the cost of ultimate thinness and ease of maintenance. A convex edge has more metal behind it, so it is not quite as effortlessly keen as a thinly flat-ground edge, and it is harder to sharpen freehand — holding the curve takes a stropping technique or a deliberate hand rather than a single fixed angle. The reward is an exceptionally tough, smooth-cutting edge.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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