• Martin Huber 109 layer Mosaic Twist Cleaver 165mm Double S-Grind - Blade
  • Martin Huber 109 layer Mosaic Twist Cleaver 165mm Double S-Grind - Profile
  • Martin Huber 109 layer Mosaic Twist Cleaver 165mm Double S-Grind - Profile
  • Martin Huber 109 layer Mosaic Twist Cleaver 165mm Double S-Grind - Profile
  • Martin Huber 109 layer Mosaic Twist Cleaver 165mm Double S-Grind - Handle
  • Martin Huber 109 layer Mosaic Twist Cleaver 165mm Double S-Grind - Handle
  • Martin Huber 109 layer Mosaic Twist Cleaver 165mm Double S-Grind - Choil
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109 layer Mosaic Twist Cleaver 165mm Double S-Grind

109 layer Mosaic Twist Cleaver 165mm Double S-Grind

By Martin Huber

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Martin Huber

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Let’s set aside the looks for a moment and consider the unique geometry of this high-performance cleaver. If you are not familiar with the “S” grind, the idea behind this unique geometry is to reduce contact between the produce and face of the blade. Naturally, this reduces bruising and damage to the produce, but it also improves food release. This cleaver features a somewhat experimental double “S” grind, which features an additional hollow in the blade designed to take food release to yet another level.

The knife is surprisingly light weight and nimble, this blade is certainly designed for all purpose use. The laser thin edge coupled with the unique double “S” grind results in an amazing slicing and chopping experience. A nakiri cleaver or a Chinese style cleaver, certainly not a bone cutter.

So, now that we have covered the performance, let’s discuss the looks. The 109-layer Damascus twist pattern blade, and the ironwood burl, stainless steel and carbon fibre used in the handle make for a contemporary, yet classic combination that is accentuated by the cutting edge double “S” grind and aggressive, for a cleaver, blade profile.

Another stunning heirloom piece from the Austrian master craftsman, Martin Huber.

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 165mm
  • Spine Heel: 3.26mm
  • Spine Mid: 2.9mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 2.2mm
  • Blade Height: 73mm
  • Weight: 257g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 62
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Brute de Forge
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: American Desert Ironwood Burl, Stainless Steel, Carbon Spacer, Stainless Bolster
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous

Blade type

Cleaver

A broad, heavy, rectangular blade — and a term that covers two very different tools. The heavy Western butcher's cleaver is built with a thick spine and robust edge to chop through bone and joints; the lighter Chinese vegetable cleaver (càidāo) has a tall, thin blade that is a surprisingly nimble all-purpose knife, with a wide face useful for scooping. Knowing which one is meant matters.

A true butcher's cleaver trades all finesse for the mass and durability needed to split bone, and it has little place in delicate work. The Chinese vegetable version is far more versatile than its size suggests but is not built for bone at all, despite the shared silhouette. The shape promises power; the specific knife determines whether that power comes with any subtlety.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

Mosaic Damascus

Pattern-welded composite, with explicit pictorial / repeating elements

Typical HRC
Core-dependent
Corrosion class
Varies
Production
Pattern-welded
Origin
Global

Mosaic damascus is a sub-discipline of damascus construction in which the maker arranges the contrasting steels into deliberate pictorial or repeating patterns — stars, knots, signatures, complete images — rather than the more conventional flowing, fold-driven patterns. The technique is associated with the modern American forging school and with a small number of European specialists. Among the makers Modern Cooking carries, Martin Huber, Fredrik Spåre, and Mert Tansu produce mosaic damascus work.

The metallurgical caveats are the same as for ordinary damascus: the cutting performance comes from whichever steel forms the cutting edge — often a clad core, occasionally the harder of the laminate steels in a full-damascus blade. The mosaic pattern is, almost by definition, a display feature.

For a kitchen knife customer, mosaic damascus is best understood as one of the highest expressions of the craft side of bladesmithing. As an editorial entry, it should always be discussed alongside the underlying core steel rather than as a steel in itself.

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Mosaic Damascus

A sub-discipline of damascus in which the maker arranges the contrasting steels into deliberate pictorial or repeating patterns — stars, knots, signatures, complete images — rather than the flowing, fold-driven patterns of conventional damascus.

The technique is associated with the modern American school and with a small number of European specialists. As with conventional damascus, the cutting performance comes from whichever steel forms the cutting edge; the mosaic pattern is, almost by definition, a display feature.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Compound Grind

A category covering blades ground with more than one geometry stacked into a single cross-section — typically a convex (or flat) primary bevel at the very edge, with one or more hollows ground higher up the blade face to relieve material behind it. The aim is food release and reduced wedging: the hollow opens an air gap so dense produce breaks away from the blade instead of clinging to it, while the convex steel at the edge keeps the apex strong and the knife driving through the cut.

The named variations in the Modern Cooking catalogue differ in where the hollows sit, how many there are, and whether the two faces are ground alike:

S-Grind — a convex primary bevel at the edge with a hollow ground into both faces just above it. The symmetrical "S"-shaped cross-section is the classic food-release grind: relief above the edge, strength at the edge.

C-Grind — an asymmetric S-grind. Both faces keep the convex primary bevel, but only one face carries the hollow above it. The single-sided relief biases food release to one side, and is simpler to grind and to maintain than a full S.

B-Grind — a stacked twin-hollow grind: a tight, narrow hollow immediately above the edge, with a second, broader and wider hollow above that. The staged relief gives especially strong food release across the height of the blade.

S-Hook Grind — also called a hook, harpoon, or J grind. An S-grind taken to an extreme, with the hollow placed very close to the cutting edge. The aggressive near-edge relief gives outstanding food release, at the price of being the most maintenance-sensitive of the family.

Asymmetrical-B Grind — a B-grind in which the twin-hollow structure is carried on one face while the other is ground differently (or left without the upper hollow), off-setting the edge. It combines the staged food release of a B-grind with the handed, steering character of an asymmetric grind.

In every case the gain is food release and reduced drag, and the shared cost is sharpening: as the edge is thinned over the knife's life, maintenance eventually reaches the hollowed steel, which cannot be flattened on a stone the way a convex or flat bevel can. How soon that happens depends on how deeply the hollows are cut and how close to the edge they sit — exactly what separates a gentle S-grind from an aggressive S-hook. These are high-craft geometries, prized by makers and experienced users for their cutting feel, and best appreciated by a cook who maintains their own edges.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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