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Gyuto 190mm Carbon Chef Brass Inlaid Name Plate SE

Gyuto 190mm Carbon Chef Brass Inlaid Name Plate SE

By Oliver Märtens


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Oliver Märtens

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Oozing with a sense of luxury, Oliver Märtens continues to push the limits with this latest piece forged in premium tungsten alloyed 1.2442 German tools steel. Ground walkschliff for absolute best in class cutting performance and featuring Oliver’s classic, highly tapered, angular gyuto profile. Balanced, ergonomic and with an agile, nimble feel. This is the kind of knife that you will find a joy to use every day of the week.

So, it performs and that is the priority, but Oliver is such a talented and creative designer. This knife pushes the aesthetics to the limits. The satin polished blade features subtle alloy banding throughout that will surely become more apparent with time and use, and the inlaid brass name plate is such a beautiful and ingenious feature tying the design together. Highlighting the hand-forged nature of the knife and completing the blade, Märten’s has left a touch of brute de forge at the ricasso.

An incredible combination of carbon fibre with gold and bronze hues streaking through black is paired with brass and linen micarta for the handle. A simply stunning, beautiful, and luxurious combination. A bit gushy, but we are impressed with this one.

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 190mm
  • Spine Heel: 3.69mm
  • Spine Mid: 1.62mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 0.79mm
  • Blade Height: 57.55mm
  • Weight: 142g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 64
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Satin Polish, Brute de Forge
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Micarta, FatCarbon, Brass
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous

Blade type

Gyuto

牛刀

The Japanese take on the Western chef's knife, and the most versatile blade in a modern kitchen. A gyuto carries a long, gently curved edge — most often 210 to 270 mm — that allows both push cuts and a rocking motion, with a pointed tip for fine work and enough height at the heel to keep knuckles clear of the board. It handles proteins, vegetables, and herbs without complaint, which is why most cooks reach for it first.

Compared with a European chef's knife, the gyuto is usually thinner, harder, and lighter, ground to a finer edge that rewards good board technique and regular honing. That same thinness is the trade-off: the edge is less forgiving of bone, frozen food, and twisting cuts, and it asks for a little more care in maintenance in exchange for its keenness.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

1.2419.05

Low-alloy tungsten-chromium oil-hardening tool steel (variant of 1.2419)

Typical HRC
60–63
Corrosion class
Carbon
Production
Conventional
Origin
Germany

1.2419.05 is the leaner, oil-hardening sub-variant of 1.2419, with somewhat reduced carbon and tungsten — closer to a 95WCr5 in spirit. The "0.05" designation signals an oil-quench specification rather than a wholly separate alloy.

For kitchen knife purposes, 1.2419.05 sits between the simple carbons and full 1.2419 in performance: a slightly easier heat treat, slightly less edge retention, similar feel at the stone. It is a sensible "step up from W2" steel for a smith who values forgiving heat treatment and a cook who values an honest, no-drama carbon edge. Toughness is good; patina behaviour is conventional.

It is uncommon enough in finished knives that you will rarely see it called out by name; when you do, treat it as a near-relative of full 1.2419 with marginally different working characteristics. Among the makers Modern Cooking carries, Martin Huber and Antoine Kniamen work in 1.2419.05.

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Mono Steel

A knife forged from a single piece of steel — no laminations, no clad layers. The simplest and most direct construction. The entire blade is the cutting steel, with no softer outer jacket to protect or contrast it. Most contemporary Western kitchen knives in carbon and stainless steel are mono-steel constructions, as are honyaki and most European bladesmith work.

The trade-off is straightforward: mono-steel knives are easier to forge, sharpen, and reason about, but the entire blade carries the cutting steel's properties — including its reactivity if it's a clean carbon. There is no soft jacket to protect a more brittle core from impact, so the heat treatment and geometry have to do all the work.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Walkschliff

A traditional Solingen grind — also called a kettle or kessel bulge grind — in which the blade is hollowed high on the side so its thickest point sits a little below the spine rather than at it. Below that bulge the steel is taken down to an extremely thin, finely convexed cutting edge, combining the rigidity of a thick upper blade with the keenness of a very thin one.

The Walkschliff is among the most demanding grinds to execute, historically reserved for the finest German knives and requiring years of a grinder's experience to do well. For the buyer it is a high-craft European alternative to the thin flat grinds of Japanese knives — strong, stable, and keen — but it is a hand-ground specialism, and a knife that carries it is priced for the skill it took to make.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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