• Nakiri 160mm 100 Layer Damascus Elm Burl
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Nakiri 160mm 100 Layer Damascus Elm Burl

Nakiri 160mm 100 Layer Damascus Elm Burl

By Martin Huber

39,145.00 TRY
39,145.00 TRY
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Low stock: 1 left

A classic piece from Martin Huber. This piece features a beautiful 100 Layer Damascus blade that is both durable and captivating. Black etched and finished with a touch of brute de forge around the spine. A very cool looking piece of steel.

The profile is a classic Martin Huber Nakiri profile. Relatively tall compared to a Japanese Nakiri with fine convex bevel and razor-sharp edge.

Martin’s tapered Rokkaku Hanmaru handle is very comfortable in the hand. Always produced in premium woods, or other robust and durable materials. This piece feature a lovely Elm Burl and Bog Oak combination that fits beautifully with the Damascus blade.

Generally speaking, Martin produces incredibly well-made knives and his Damascus Nakiri’s are very popular. If you are in the market for a beautiful knife with a high performance edge geometry, that is perfect as general use knife at home, then look no further.

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Overall Length: 305mm
  • Edge Length: 160mm
  • Spine Heel: 3.48mm
  • Spine Mid: 2.05mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 1mm
  • Blade Height: 56mm
  • Weight: 182g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 61
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Brute de ForgeAcid Etched (Forced Patina)Satin Polish
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Bog Oak, Elm Burl
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous

Blade type

Nakiri

菜切

A double-bevel vegetable knife with a tall, rectangular blade and a straight edge that meets the board along its full length. That flat profile is built for one job done exceptionally well: clean, full-contact push and chop cuts through vegetables, with the height giving knuckle clearance and a broad face to guide sliced produce. There is no belly to rock, because rocking is not what it is for.

The nakiri's specialisation is also its limit. It is superb on vegetables and unhurried prep, but the straight edge and squared-off tip make it poor at the tip work, rocking, and protein tasks a gyuto or santoku handle easily. It is best understood as a dedicated vegetable knife that earns its place alongside a more general blade rather than replacing one.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

Damascus

Pattern-welded composite construction (term, not an alloy)

Typical HRC
Determined by core / outer steel
Corrosion class
Varies
Production
Pattern-welded
Origin
Global

"Damascus" is a construction technique, not a steel. Modern damascus billets are made by forge-welding alternating layers of two or more steels — typically a higher- and a lower-carbon partner, or a contrasting-nickel pair — and then folding, twisting, ladder-cutting, or otherwise manipulating the billet to expose the layer interfaces in a pattern. The visual interest comes from the etch, which preferentially attacks one of the two steels.

For a kitchen knife the relevant question is always: what is the cutting steel? Many premium Japanese damascus knives are *clad* damascus — a VG-10, SG2 or carbon core inside a multi-layer damascus jacket — in which case the patterning is decorative and the cutting metallurgy is the core. In *full* damascus knives (more common in custom Western work) the entire blade is pattern-welded, and the cutting steel is the harder of the two laminate components.

This is one of the points where a customer-facing entry needs to be honest: a beautiful damascus pattern is a craft achievement, but it does not on its own tell the buyer how the knife will cut. The core steel does that, and a good maker will list both.

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Damascus

Pattern-welded steel — multiple layers of different alloys forge-welded, then folded, twisted, ladder-cut, or otherwise manipulated to expose the layer interfaces in a visible pattern. The pattern is revealed by acid etching, which preferentially attacks one of the two steels in the laminate.

Damascus is a construction technique rather than a single steel. The cutting performance is determined by which steel forms the cutting edge — often a clad core in Japanese damascus knives, occasionally the harder of the two laminate steels in full-damascus Western work. A beautiful damascus pattern is a craft achievement; it does not on its own tell the buyer how the knife will cut. A good maker lists both the pattern and the core steel.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Flat

A grind in which the blade tapers in a straight line from the spine down toward the edge, with no curve or hollow in the bevel. The flat grind is the most common geometry on modern double-bevel kitchen knives because it balances cutting performance and durability: thin enough behind the edge to slice well, with enough steel behind it to stay strong.

A true full flat grind, running from spine to edge, is keen but can wedge in dense produce as the food meets the widening blade; many kitchen knives use a partial flat grind that begins lower on the blade to manage that. The flat grind's appeal is its predictability — it sharpens straightforwardly, behaves consistently, and asks nothing unusual of the user.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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