• Martin Huber Gyuto 240mm 100Cr6 Integral - Blade
  • Martin Huber Gyuto 240mm 100Cr6 Integral - Handle
  • Martin Huber Gyuto 240mm 100Cr6 Integral - Handle
  • Martin Huber Gyuto 240mm 100Cr6 Integral - Handle
  • Martin Huber Gyuto 240mm 100Cr6 Integral - Integral
  • Martin Huber Gyuto 240mm 100Cr6 Integral - Profile
  • Martin Huber Gyuto 240mm 100Cr6 Integral - Profile
  • Martin Huber Gyuto 240mm 100Cr6 Integral - Choil
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Gyuto 240mm 100Cr6 Integral

Gyuto 240mm 100Cr6 Integral

By Martin Huber

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Martin Huber

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Martin Huber Gyuto 240mm with a forged integral handle, screw fastened hidden tang construction and a mono steel (100Cr6) blade. The blade features a highly polished, forged finish up near the spine, which provides a lovely textured surface to pinch. Below, the face has been satin polished with visible, but consistent sanding lines diagonally reaching down towards the edge of the blade. It’s a beautiful effect that pairs perfectly with the cement like texture of the forged finish at the spine.

When it comes to geometry, this blade features some aggressive lines. A relatively thick, but tapered spine and a needle like K-tip make for a versatile blade that I would consider a nimble workhorse. The edge profile is very much a classic Japanese Gyuto. A nicely convexed blade with a thin, sharp edge and robust, yet tapered spine.

It’s just aesthetics, but Martin has given this blade a pair of 45-degree facets along the spine that look very cool. They are smooth to the touch and only effect the blade from an aesthetics perspective, but it’s a nice feature and a unique look.

Reach for the handle and you will be very impressed. The forged integral feels very comfortable in a pinch and the knife is balanced perfectly over those angled shoulders. A bespoke octagonal combination of steel, carbon, and a beautiful piece of stabilised, spalted Beech makes for a very classy combination. Paired with the polished 100Cr6 steel blade the complete package is 100% on point!

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 240mm
  • Spine Heel: 4.6mm
  • Spine Mid: 3.26mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 1.2mm
  • Blade Height: 55mm
  • Weight: 281g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 61+
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Brute de Forge
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Stabilised, Spalted Beech, Carbon
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous

Blade type

Gyuto

牛刀

The Japanese take on the Western chef's knife, and the most versatile blade in a modern kitchen. A gyuto carries a long, gently curved edge — most often 210 to 270 mm — that allows both push cuts and a rocking motion, with a pointed tip for fine work and enough height at the heel to keep knuckles clear of the board. It handles proteins, vegetables, and herbs without complaint, which is why most cooks reach for it first.

Compared with a European chef's knife, the gyuto is usually thinner, harder, and lighter, ground to a finer edge that rewards good board technique and regular honing. That same thinness is the trade-off: the edge is less forgiving of bone, frozen food, and twisting cuts, and it asks for a little more care in maintenance in exchange for its keenness.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

100Cr6

Low-alloy chromium bearing/tool steel

Typical HRC
61–65
Corrosion class
Carbon
Production
Conventional
Origin
Europe (EN); identical to AISI 52100 and DIN 1.3505

100Cr6 is the European Norm designation for the steel sold in the United States as 52100 and in Germany as 1.3505. The chemistry and behaviour are identical; the regional name is the only difference. See 52100 for the full editorial profile.

Also known as:52100, 1.3505

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Mono Steel

A knife forged from a single piece of steel — no laminations, no clad layers. The simplest and most direct construction. The entire blade is the cutting steel, with no softer outer jacket to protect or contrast it. Most contemporary Western kitchen knives in carbon and stainless steel are mono-steel constructions, as are honyaki and most European bladesmith work.

The trade-off is straightforward: mono-steel knives are easier to forge, sharpen, and reason about, but the entire blade carries the cutting steel's properties — including its reactivity if it's a clean carbon. There is no soft jacket to protect a more brittle core from impact, so the heat treatment and geometry have to do all the work.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Convex

A grind whose bevel bulges outward in a gentle curve from spine to edge, rather than running flat. That extra steel directly behind the edge makes a convex grind notably strong and resistant to chipping, while the curved geometry helps food release and lets the blade glide through dense ingredients with less wedging than a flat grind.

The strength comes at the cost of ultimate thinness and ease of maintenance. A convex edge has more metal behind it, so it is not quite as effortlessly keen as a thinly flat-ground edge, and it is harder to sharpen freehand — holding the curve takes a stropping technique or a deliberate hand rather than a single fixed angle. The reward is an exceptionally tough, smooth-cutting edge.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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