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Gyuto 240mm OB Steel "FRETT" Go Mai

Gyuto 240mm OB Steel "FRETT" Go Mai

By PRE-OWNED


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Karol Karyś

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This incredible piece of work from Karol Karyś was commissioned by Modern Cooking on behalf of one of our customers. It was the first of this kind of creation by this legendary Polish artist.

The specification was simple, create a knife that represent you and your style, but make it EXTRA! Don’t hold back at all!

Karol Karyś’s designs are inspired by the brutalist architecture movement of the 1950s. The textures found on made by karyś knives are typically inspired by the examples of brutalism found in Karol’s hometown of Krakow, Poland. Brutalism is often characterised by minimalist constructions that showcase the bare building materials and structural elements over decorative design. The style commonly makes use of exposed, unpainted concrete or brick, angular geometric shapes, and a predominantly monochrome colour palette. 

These raw materials often develop over time, naturally eroding and forming unique textures, which are obviously present in this piece. This naturally eroded or aged look is where this piece gets its name “FRETT”, like corroded, which somewhat describes the techniques used to give the knife its unique textures that were achieved with acid corrosion.

The blade has been forged from Oblivion Blades 80CRV2 Go Mai and hardened to approximately 62HRC. With premium convex geometry and an ergonomic Gyuto profile the knife, which is obviously leaning heavily in the direction of artistry, is a highly functional piece of culinary art, design to be used.

The k-tip profile suits Karol’s brutalist inspired designs with its more angular shape. The profile features a rather consistent spine thickness with a pointed tip. It’s a rigid blade with a comforting stability about it. With a blade hight of approximately 60mm there is plenty of hight to taper down to a razor-sharp edge. Ground convex the blade performs extremely well, and the profile feels very comfortable on the board.    

The handle, equally impressive. The museum fit, tapered inset bolster is a very classy piece of work and truly brings the overall piece to another level. The handle itself is very comfortable in the hand with its bespoke, tapered Rokkaku Hanmaru shape.

Overall, an incredible piece of work from Karol Karyś, without question perfect fit an finish, incredible performance and amazing artistic flare!

Condition: New, Never Used

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 240mm
  • Spine Heel: 2.85mm
  • Spine Mid: 2.35mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 1.11mm
  • Blade Height: 59.65mm
  • Weight: 209g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 62
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: TexturedAcid Etched (Forced Patina)
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Stabilised Cross Cut Maple, Brass
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous

Blade type

Gyuto

牛刀

The Japanese take on the Western chef's knife, and the most versatile blade in a modern kitchen. A gyuto carries a long, gently curved edge — most often 210 to 270 mm — that allows both push cuts and a rocking motion, with a pointed tip for fine work and enough height at the heel to keep knuckles clear of the board. It handles proteins, vegetables, and herbs without complaint, which is why most cooks reach for it first.

Compared with a European chef's knife, the gyuto is usually thinner, harder, and lighter, ground to a finer edge that rewards good board technique and regular honing. That same thinness is the trade-off: the edge is less forgiving of bone, frozen food, and twisting cuts, and it asks for a little more care in maintenance in exchange for its keenness.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

80CrV2

Low-alloy chromium-vanadium spring/tool steel

Typical HRC
58–62
Corrosion class
Carbon
Production
Conventional
Origin
Germany (DIN 1.2235)

80CrV2 is a shallow-hardening, toughness-favouring carbon steel that has built a reputation as the "indestructible" choice in outdoor and kitchen knife circles. With about 0.80 percent carbon, half a percent each of chromium and manganese, and a small vanadium addition for grain refinement, it sits a clear step above 1084 in alloy content while remaining easy to forge and easy to heat treat.

In a kitchen knife it typically lands in the 59–61 HRC range. Edge retention is moderate — better than a plain carbon, lower than 52100 or 26C3 — but the trade is genuine: 80CrV2 is forgivingly tough at hardness, takes a quick burr-free edge, and resists rolling on bone or accidentally encountered cherry pits in a way that more refined steels will not. It will patina, but more grudgingly than a Hitachi white, because of the chromium.

You see 80CrV2 most in the hands of bladesmiths who value forge feel and toughness over outright edge-holding — a "good knife you can hand to anyone" kind of steel. It is a reasonable workhorse and a particularly common choice for camp-and-kitchen crossovers, where its tolerance for rough handling makes a real difference. Among the makers Modern Cooking carries, Karol Karyś works in 80CrV2.

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Laminated Steel

A category covering knives built from multiple layers of different steels forge-welded together. The hard cutting steel is sandwiched between softer outer layers (cladding) that protect the core, add toughness, and often contribute visual contrast.

The most common laminated constructions in the Modern Cooking catalogue are:

SanMai (三枚) — three layers: hard cutting steel in the centre, softer cladding on both sides. The traditional and most common form.

GoMai (五枚) — five layers: a hard core, two intermediate layers, and two outer layers. Adds visual depth and structural complexity.

KuMai (九枚) — nine layers: similar logic, with more cladding layers for additional pattern and structural variation.

GoMai and KuMai are often chosen not only for the additional layers and visual depth, but also because the intermediate layers can act as a nickel diffusion barrier — limiting carbon migration out of the core into the cladding during forge welding, and protecting the core's intended carbon content through the heat of the forging process.

In all cases the cutting performance is determined by the core steel; the outer layers are cosmetic and structural. The lamination contributes corrosion protection (when a stainless jacket clads a carbon core), reduced reactivity, and the visible boundary between core and cladding that gives the knife its character.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Convex

A grind whose bevel bulges outward in a gentle curve from spine to edge, rather than running flat. That extra steel directly behind the edge makes a convex grind notably strong and resistant to chipping, while the curved geometry helps food release and lets the blade glide through dense ingredients with less wedging than a flat grind.

The strength comes at the cost of ultimate thinness and ease of maintenance. A convex edge has more metal behind it, so it is not quite as effortlessly keen as a thinly flat-ground edge, and it is harder to sharpen freehand — holding the curve takes a stropping technique or a deliberate hand rather than a single fixed angle. The reward is an exceptionally tough, smooth-cutting edge.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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