Skip to product information
1 of 7

Bunka 135mm OB Go Mai Micarta & Copper

Bunka 135mm OB Go Mai Micarta & Copper

By Collaboration


No longer available

Jerarmie Heywood

Reserve your place

We'll only email you when there's something to say. Invitations go out in signup order as new work becomes available.

Karol Karyś is a consistent innovator, unique designer, and extremely talented craftsman. Continuing with our Oblivion Blades collaboration, Karol has taken things in a new direction with this 135mm Bunka. The blade features a unique fluted “S” grind, giving the brutalist textures a pragmatic touch and adding purpose to the signature made by Karyś detail.

The blade features a nice subtle curve from heel to tip. The unique fluted “S” grind is very thin behind the razor-sharp edge. This fun little bunka would be great for light prep work and the perfect knife to set at the table with hard cheese, dried sausage, and cold drinks.

Completed with the classic made by Karyś facetted handle and textured copper bolster.


Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 135mm
  • Spine Heel: 4.08mm
  • Spine Mid: 2.9mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 1.65mm
  • Blade Height: 47.8mm
  • Weight: 166g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 62
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Acid Etched (Forced Patina)Brute de ForgeTextured
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Micarta, Copper
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous

Blade type

Bunka

文化

A close cousin of the santoku, distinguished by its reverse-tanto tip — an angular k-tip where the spine drops sharply to meet a mostly flat edge. The flat profile excels at push cutting, and the aggressive tip gives back the fine point work a santoku's rounded nose gives up, making the bunka a versatile mid-length all-rounder with a distinctive silhouette.

The bunka's appeal is as much geometry as style: the angular tip is excellent for detail and scoring but asks for a little respect, since the point sits lower and sharper than on a curved blade. Performance otherwise tracks the santoku closely, so the choice between them usually comes down to tip preference and how the knife feels in the hand.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

80CrV2

Low-alloy chromium-vanadium spring/tool steel

Typical HRC
58–62
Corrosion class
Carbon
Production
Conventional
Origin
Germany (DIN 1.2235)

80CrV2 is a shallow-hardening, toughness-favouring carbon steel that has built a reputation as the "indestructible" choice in outdoor and kitchen knife circles. With about 0.80 percent carbon, half a percent each of chromium and manganese, and a small vanadium addition for grain refinement, it sits a clear step above 1084 in alloy content while remaining easy to forge and easy to heat treat.

In a kitchen knife it typically lands in the 59–61 HRC range. Edge retention is moderate — better than a plain carbon, lower than 52100 or 26C3 — but the trade is genuine: 80CrV2 is forgivingly tough at hardness, takes a quick burr-free edge, and resists rolling on bone or accidentally encountered cherry pits in a way that more refined steels will not. It will patina, but more grudgingly than a Hitachi white, because of the chromium.

You see 80CrV2 most in the hands of bladesmiths who value forge feel and toughness over outright edge-holding — a "good knife you can hand to anyone" kind of steel. It is a reasonable workhorse and a particularly common choice for camp-and-kitchen crossovers, where its tolerance for rough handling makes a real difference. Among the makers Modern Cooking carries, Karol Karyś works in 80CrV2.

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Laminated Steel

A category covering knives built from multiple layers of different steels forge-welded together. The hard cutting steel is sandwiched between softer outer layers (cladding) that protect the core, add toughness, and often contribute visual contrast.

The most common laminated constructions in the Modern Cooking catalogue are:

SanMai (三枚) — three layers: hard cutting steel in the centre, softer cladding on both sides. The traditional and most common form.

GoMai (五枚) — five layers: a hard core, two intermediate layers, and two outer layers. Adds visual depth and structural complexity.

KuMai (九枚) — nine layers: similar logic, with more cladding layers for additional pattern and structural variation.

GoMai and KuMai are often chosen not only for the additional layers and visual depth, but also because the intermediate layers can act as a nickel diffusion barrier — limiting carbon migration out of the core into the cladding during forge welding, and protecting the core's intended carbon content through the heat of the forging process.

In all cases the cutting performance is determined by the core steel; the outer layers are cosmetic and structural. The lamination contributes corrosion protection (when a stainless jacket clads a carbon core), reduced reactivity, and the visible boundary between core and cladding that gives the knife its character.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Compound Grind

A category covering blades ground with more than one geometry stacked into a single cross-section — typically a convex (or flat) primary bevel at the very edge, with one or more hollows ground higher up the blade face to relieve material behind it. The aim is food release and reduced wedging: the hollow opens an air gap so dense produce breaks away from the blade instead of clinging to it, while the convex steel at the edge keeps the apex strong and the knife driving through the cut.

The named variations in the Modern Cooking catalogue differ in where the hollows sit, how many there are, and whether the two faces are ground alike:

S-Grind — a convex primary bevel at the edge with a hollow ground into both faces just above it. The symmetrical "S"-shaped cross-section is the classic food-release grind: relief above the edge, strength at the edge.

C-Grind — an asymmetric S-grind. Both faces keep the convex primary bevel, but only one face carries the hollow above it. The single-sided relief biases food release to one side, and is simpler to grind and to maintain than a full S.

B-Grind — a stacked twin-hollow grind: a tight, narrow hollow immediately above the edge, with a second, broader and wider hollow above that. The staged relief gives especially strong food release across the height of the blade.

S-Hook Grind — also called a hook, harpoon, or J grind. An S-grind taken to an extreme, with the hollow placed very close to the cutting edge. The aggressive near-edge relief gives outstanding food release, at the price of being the most maintenance-sensitive of the family.

Asymmetrical-B Grind — a B-grind in which the twin-hollow structure is carried on one face while the other is ground differently (or left without the upper hollow), off-setting the edge. It combines the staged food release of a B-grind with the handed, steering character of an asymmetric grind.

In every case the gain is food release and reduced drag, and the shared cost is sharpening: as the edge is thinned over the knife's life, maintenance eventually reaches the hollowed steel, which cannot be flattened on a stone the way a convex or flat bevel can. How soon that happens depends on how deeply the hollows are cut and how close to the edge they sit — exactly what separates a gentle S-grind from an aggressive S-hook. These are high-craft geometries, prized by makers and experienced users for their cutting feel, and best appreciated by a cook who maintains their own edges.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

View full details