• Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind
  • Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind – detail view
  • Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind – side profile
  • Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind – handle detail
  • Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind – blade close-up
  • Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind – view 6
  • Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind – view 7
  • Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind – view 8
  • Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind – view 9
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Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind

Gyuto 225mm 23 Layer Suminagashi Clad Waffle Textured S Grind

By ScheepersBuilt

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Luke Scheepers

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With a combination of Milled, hand forged and hand ground textures and geometries Luke Scheepers continues to push the creative boundaries of what is considered hand crafted. Absolutely focused on performance first design this blade features hand ground convex bevels which meet the milled S ground hollow. The convex bevels are relatively tall, 15mm, and incredibly thin maxing out at less than 1.8mm of thickness just before the hollow S. The result is an S grind with incredible cutting performance, but also longevity. Too often makers will grind the initial bevels of their S grinds a little thicker to make it easier to then implement the hollow S, perhaps resulting in an overall reduction cutting performance. This is certainly not the case here and Luke has delivered an incredibly well-thought-out example of the S grind. Maximising the incredible cutting potential of this grind while considering the maintainability of the knife.

The waffle texturing around the spine is not simply a stylistic embellishment either. It looks fantastic, but its thoughtfully placed around the pinch point of the blade and it feels incredible. Luxurious and confidence instilling this is the kind of thoughtful design that is found in work produced by the best of the best. A stylist choice that adds, and never subtracts, to the performance and ergonomics of the knife is something that will always impress.

Each element of this blade has been tastefully and lovingly considered. Natural linen micarta, tough, durable and with a beautiful aesthetic. The stitched Oak saya with the milled Scheepers Built mark is such an original and iconic touch. The subtle combination of natural materials, contemporary and tasteful design along with the suminagashi clad blade results in a look that feels timeless and classy. We are so proud to be able to work with creative and talented artisans like the Scheepers and so excited to see them continue their creative journey.

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 225mm
  • Spine Heel: 3.11mm
  • Spine Mid: 2.93mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 1.00mm
  • Blade Height: 58.2mm
  • Weight: 179g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 63
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Acid Etched (Forced Patina)Textured
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Natural Linen Micarta, Oak
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous
  • Saya / Storage Included: Yes

Blade type

Gyuto

牛刀

The Japanese take on the Western chef's knife, and the most versatile blade in a modern kitchen. A gyuto carries a long, gently curved edge — most often 210 to 270 mm — that allows both push cuts and a rocking motion, with a pointed tip for fine work and enough height at the heel to keep knuckles clear of the board. It handles proteins, vegetables, and herbs without complaint, which is why most cooks reach for it first.

Compared with a European chef's knife, the gyuto is usually thinner, harder, and lighter, ground to a finer edge that rewards good board technique and regular honing. That same thinness is the trade-off: the edge is less forgiving of bone, frozen food, and twisting cuts, and it asks for a little more care in maintenance in exchange for its keenness.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

V-Toku2

Low-alloy high-carbon tungsten-chromium tool steel

Typical HRC
63–66
Corrosion class
Carbon
Production
Conventional
Origin
Japan (Takefu Special Steel)

Editorial note: V-Toku2 is sometimes described in online write-ups as "semi-stainless." The steel's chromium content (around 0.25 percent) is too low to support that claim — V-Toku2 is unambiguously a clean, reactive carbon steel. It will patina and rust if neglected, and should be cared for accordingly.

The composition is approximately 1.05 percent carbon, 0.25 percent chromium, 1.25 percent tungsten, and a small vanadium addition. Conceptually it is Takefu's answer to Aogami #2: similar W-Cr-C balance, similar feel at the stone, similar performance at the apex. In a finished knife it runs at 62–65 HRC, sharpens cleanly, and produces a refined edge with good wear resistance from the tungsten carbides.

V-Toku2 is increasingly seen in mid-tier Japanese clad knives where the maker wants an Aogami-feel carbon without committing to Hitachi stock. Among the makers Modern Cooking carries, Adonis Forged Arts and Oatley Knives work in V-Toku2. It is a quietly capable steel and a good answer for a cook who wants the "blue paper" experience from a non-Hitachi maker.

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Laminated Steel

A category covering knives built from multiple layers of different steels forge-welded together. The hard cutting steel is sandwiched between softer outer layers (cladding) that protect the core, add toughness, and often contribute visual contrast.

The most common laminated constructions in the Modern Cooking catalogue are:

SanMai (三枚) — three layers: hard cutting steel in the centre, softer cladding on both sides. The traditional and most common form.

GoMai (五枚) — five layers: a hard core, two intermediate layers, and two outer layers. Adds visual depth and structural complexity.

KuMai (九枚) — nine layers: similar logic, with more cladding layers for additional pattern and structural variation.

GoMai and KuMai are often chosen not only for the additional layers and visual depth, but also because the intermediate layers can act as a nickel diffusion barrier — limiting carbon migration out of the core into the cladding during forge welding, and protecting the core's intended carbon content through the heat of the forging process.

In all cases the cutting performance is determined by the core steel; the outer layers are cosmetic and structural. The lamination contributes corrosion protection (when a stainless jacket clads a carbon core), reduced reactivity, and the visible boundary between core and cladding that gives the knife its character.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Compound Grind

A category covering blades ground with more than one geometry stacked into a single cross-section — typically a convex (or flat) primary bevel at the very edge, with one or more hollows ground higher up the blade face to relieve material behind it. The aim is food release and reduced wedging: the hollow opens an air gap so dense produce breaks away from the blade instead of clinging to it, while the convex steel at the edge keeps the apex strong and the knife driving through the cut.

The named variations in the Modern Cooking catalogue differ in where the hollows sit, how many there are, and whether the two faces are ground alike:

S-Grind — a convex primary bevel at the edge with a hollow ground into both faces just above it. The symmetrical "S"-shaped cross-section is the classic food-release grind: relief above the edge, strength at the edge.

C-Grind — an asymmetric S-grind. Both faces keep the convex primary bevel, but only one face carries the hollow above it. The single-sided relief biases food release to one side, and is simpler to grind and to maintain than a full S.

B-Grind — a stacked twin-hollow grind: a tight, narrow hollow immediately above the edge, with a second, broader and wider hollow above that. The staged relief gives especially strong food release across the height of the blade.

S-Hook Grind — also called a hook, harpoon, or J grind. An S-grind taken to an extreme, with the hollow placed very close to the cutting edge. The aggressive near-edge relief gives outstanding food release, at the price of being the most maintenance-sensitive of the family.

Asymmetrical-B Grind — a B-grind in which the twin-hollow structure is carried on one face while the other is ground differently (or left without the upper hollow), off-setting the edge. It combines the staged food release of a B-grind with the handed, steering character of an asymmetric grind.

In every case the gain is food release and reduced drag, and the shared cost is sharpening: as the edge is thinned over the knife's life, maintenance eventually reaches the hollowed steel, which cannot be flattened on a stone the way a convex or flat bevel can. How soon that happens depends on how deeply the hollows are cut and how close to the edge they sit — exactly what separates a gentle S-grind from an aggressive S-hook. These are high-craft geometries, prized by makers and experienced users for their cutting feel, and best appreciated by a cook who maintains their own edges.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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