• Gyuto 220mm C100S 'Denty'
  • Gyuto 220mm C100S 'Denty' – detail view
  • Gyuto 220mm C100S 'Denty' – side profile
  • Gyuto 220mm C100S 'Denty' – handle detail
  • Gyuto 220mm C100S 'Denty' – blade close-up
  • Gyuto 220mm C100S 'Denty' – view 6
  • Gyuto 220mm C100S 'Denty' – view 7
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Gyuto 220mm C100S "Denty"

Gyuto 220mm C100S "Denty"

By Martin Huber

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Martin Huber

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Known for producing vibrant and sophisticated knives with technically challenging layered steels, Martin Huber has kept it simple on this one. A subtle yet beautiful hammered “Denty” texture on a mono steel blade paired with a simple, yet classy Curly Ash and Ancient Oak handle.

Forged from C100S steel and hardened to around 62HRC, the blade is thin and tall with a lovely thin edge and convex bevel. Above the heel the spine is just 2.4mm and tapers down to approximately 1.3mm as it hits the grind. A very clean Gyuto profile with hybrid Santoku-k-tip.

The handle is Martin’s classic tapered Rokkaku Hanmaru screw fastened design and features very clean lines and perfect fit and finish. Balanced beautifully and very comfortable in the hand the knife a subtle piece of work that highlights Martin’s skill as a craftsman and bladesmith.

Product Specification
  • Blade Type:
  • Edge Length: 220mm
  • Spine Heel: 2.4mm
  • Spine Mid: 2mm
  • Spine Tip (20mm before): 1.3mm
  • Blade Height: 57.5mm
  • Weight: 191g
  • Cutting Edge Steel:
  • Steel class: Carbon
  • HRC: 62+
  • Blade Construction:
  • Blade Finish: Brute de ForgeTextured
  • Grind:
  • Handle Construction:
  • Handle Materials: Curly Ash and Bog Oak
  • Handedness: Ambidextrous

Blade type

Gyuto

牛刀

The Japanese take on the Western chef's knife, and the most versatile blade in a modern kitchen. A gyuto carries a long, gently curved edge — most often 210 to 270 mm — that allows both push cuts and a rocking motion, with a pointed tip for fine work and enough height at the heel to keep knuckles clear of the board. It handles proteins, vegetables, and herbs without complaint, which is why most cooks reach for it first.

Compared with a European chef's knife, the gyuto is usually thinner, harder, and lighter, ground to a finer edge that rewards good board technique and regular honing. That same thinness is the trade-off: the edge is less forgiving of bone, frozen food, and twisting cuts, and it asks for a little more care in maintenance in exchange for its keenness.

View full knife type guide →

Cutting edge steel

C100S

Plain high-carbon spring/blade steel

Typical HRC
61–63
Corrosion class
Carbon
Production
Conventional
Origin
Europe (DIN 1.1274)

C100S is a clean, simple, near-eutectoid European carbon steel — roughly one percent carbon, low manganese, low silicon, no chromium — and is for practical purposes the European cousin of AISI 1095. It is a through-hardening spring/blade grade, easy to forge, easy to heat treat, and used across a range of European cutlery applications including the Morakniv Garberg Grand and a number of mid-range French and German kitchen knives.

For the cook, C100S behaves like a polite carbon: hardens to about 61–62 HRC in a careful heat treat, sharpens crisply, takes an edge that is keen but not screaming, and patinas readily. Edge retention is moderate — closer to 1084 than to 52100 — but the steel is genuinely honest, and a knife in this material is generally a knife at a reasonable price point.

C100S is one of three closely related EN-system carbons in this encyclopedia: C105 sits a notch above it in carbon, and C130 sits a clear level above. The numerical convention (the digits after the C are the carbon content × 100) makes the family relationships transparent. Among the makers Modern Cooking carries, Martin Huber works in C100S.

Also known as:1.1274

View full steel guide →

Blade construction

Mono Steel

A knife forged from a single piece of steel — no laminations, no clad layers. The simplest and most direct construction. The entire blade is the cutting steel, with no softer outer jacket to protect or contrast it. Most contemporary Western kitchen knives in carbon and stainless steel are mono-steel constructions, as are honyaki and most European bladesmith work.

The trade-off is straightforward: mono-steel knives are easier to forge, sharpen, and reason about, but the entire blade carries the cutting steel's properties — including its reactivity if it's a clean carbon. There is no soft jacket to protect a more brittle core from impact, so the heat treatment and geometry have to do all the work.

View full construction guide →

Grind

Convex

A grind whose bevel bulges outward in a gentle curve from spine to edge, rather than running flat. That extra steel directly behind the edge makes a convex grind notably strong and resistant to chipping, while the curved geometry helps food release and lets the blade glide through dense ingredients with less wedging than a flat grind.

The strength comes at the cost of ultimate thinness and ease of maintenance. A convex edge has more metal behind it, so it is not quite as effortlessly keen as a thinly flat-ground edge, and it is harder to sharpen freehand — holding the curve takes a stropping technique or a deliberate hand rather than a single fixed angle. The reward is an exceptionally tough, smooth-cutting edge.

View full grind guide →

Handle construction

Hidden Tang

A construction in which the tang runs into the handle but stays concealed inside it, rather than showing between two scales. A narrower tang — a full-length stick or a shorter projection — is set into a drilled or burned channel in a one-piece handle and secured with adhesive, a friction fit, or a threaded fitting drawn up against the blade. This is the traditional construction of Japanese wa-handles and many European hidden-tang knives.

The design puts the handle material in charge of the look and feel: a single piece of wood, horn, or composite — often with a ferrule or spacers at the front — is shaped into any cross-section the maker wants, from the classic octagonal and D-shaped wa profiles to fully rounded Western forms. With no steel showing along the grip, the handle can be slim and light, and is frequently made to be removed and replaced, with the balance sitting toward the blade.

View full construction guide →

Shipping & Returns

Shipping

We process orders 5 days a week (Monday - Friday) and ship from our shop in Sydney, Australia. We ship with FedEx, UPS and DHL.

We are happy to offer free international shipping on a variety of orders depending on location and order value.

Free Shipping Regions and Minimum Order Values

For Australia and New Zealand the minimum is $500AUD. For the rest of the world it is approximately €1000EUR. The discount is applied automatically when you reach the minimum cart value at checkout.

Returns

If you're not entirely happy with your purchase, you can return it within 14 days of delivery for a refund. The item must be in its original condition with all original packaging.

  • Returns are accepted for 14 days
  • The customer is responsible for return shipping costs
  • A 15% restocking fee may be applied to change-of-mind returns
  • We do not accept returns on second-hand items for change of mind

Faulty or Damaged Items

You must notify us within 5 business days of receiving your order. Photographic evidence of damage is required. Once approved, Modern Cooking will cover return shipping costs.

Product Care

Cleaning: Clean by hand with warm water. Avoid wetting the handle when possible.

Sharpening: We advise using whetstones to sharpen your knives and a honing rod or steel to maintain the burr between sharpening sessions.

Reactive Steels: Reactive steels like Aogami Super, Apex Ultra or premium reactive German and Swedish steels are susceptible to rust if not properly cared for. Keep the knife dry between uses and when storing for longer periods, wiping the blade with Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil is a wise choice. A patina can be a beautiful personal feature on your knife and helps to stop rust forming.

Handle Care: For non-stabilised wooden handles, apply Tsubaki oil or another food-safe oil from time to time. Food-safe wax can be applied to both stabilised and non-stabilised wooden handles. Never apply hot wax or oil as you risk warping or damaging the handle.

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